Believe me, you will hear about crocodiles in Timor Leste every single day. No wonder, fatality rate because of those deadly creatures is the highest in Timor in compare with any other country which has salt water crocodiles. At the same time, crocodiles are a very important totem for the culture of Timorese. You may find surprising, that when crocodile appears in the village, some communities will find it as blessing and they will protect the animal, even celebrate it.
I have never imagined before, that I will have to be aware of those deadly creatures while being on the beach. I traveled all the north coast of Timor Leste and fortunately, I didn’t meet one during my stay in East Timor.
Timor Leste is a young country which struggled with occupation and war for many years. Currently facing lots of problems with development and poverty as well as many economic and political issues. Among all those, environmental issue regarding crocodiles is more and more alarming as people keep disappearing.
What the legend says about crocodiles in Timor Leste?
“The juvenile salt-water crocodile was near to death when the small boy found it stranded in a swamp far from the sea. Although greatly afraid, the boy decided to try and save the crocodile and eventually managed to get it back to the sea where it quickly recovered.
The two became best friends and went on to travel the world together, with the boy riding on the back of the crocodile as it swam across the seas. But as the crocodile grew older, and the time came for it to die, it told the young man it would transform itself into a beautiful island where he and his children could live until the sun sank into the sea…”
Timorese people believe that crocodiles are lulik – ‘sacred’ and they are their ancestors – often with the term: ‘Grandfather Crocodile’. The origin story of Timor Leste tells about ancestor Lafaek Diak “the Good Crocodile” and a young boy. The crocodile sacrifices itself to create the land of Timor Leste, the mountains are his spine, a home for the boy who had trusted him enough to ride his back to a new land.
Timorese see their country as a shape of the crocodile as well as shape of the mountain seen from the Jaco Island – sacred place in Timor and the most famous tourist attraction.
All that being said, Timorese believe that crocodile can eat only bad people. It is not uncommon for families to not report when crocodile eats someone as they feel ashamed. Due to this fact, it’s impossible to estimate how many people are eaten by crocodiles every year in Timor Leste. The beliefs that surround the crocodile vary from region to region, there are some clans that keep them as pets and believe they can communicate with them.
It becomes clear that each situation relating to a crocodiles issue will need a case by case sensibility due to their beliefs.
“The legend says
and who am I to disbelieve!
The sun perched atop the sea
opened its eyes
and with its rays
indicated a way
From the depths of the ocean
a crocodile in search of a destiny
spied the pool of light, and there he surfaced
Then wearily, he stretched himself out in time
and his lumpy hide was transformed
into a mountain range
where people were born
and where people died
Grandfather crocodile — the legend says
and who am I to disbelieve
that he is Timor!”
Xanana Gusmão
Crocodiles issue in East Timor in reality
Under Portugeese and Indonesian rule crocodile culling was the norm. However, once the country gained sovereignty the government protected status of the crocodiles to rectify a sense of national identity and culture.
The saltwater crocodile population skyrocketed growing and became a huge problem for local people. Huge number of beaches in Timor-Leste are unswimmable and many communities live in constant fear of crocodile attacks. Fishing is essential for surviving for great amount of Timorese, so sometimes they have no other solution than to take a risk. At the same time Timorese culture and beliefs are very strong. Entering the ocean people may say “Don’t eat me crocodile, I am your relative”.
As the country is trying to rebuild the tourism sector, this issue is an important factor as well. When I was traveling on the north coast of the country, I heard everywhere to be careful about the crocodile. The only place during the whole trip, where there was no risk to swim was Atauro Island. Making crocodiles farms can be a huge tourist draw. However, it meets with a cultural issue as the crocodiles are sacred animals for Timorese. Apart from that, at the moment there is luck of funds for creating such farms. Decreasing poverty and developing the country have priority.
Luckily, many people in tourism sector push into responsible tourism. I belive, little by little, crocodile issue will get solution which will be good for safety of the citizens without harming the animals.
The Bee is a nature lover and tea addict. Loves the idea of slow life and responsible traveling, constantly trying to improve to bee more eco-friendly. Appreciates old cultures and traditions, loves to immerse with locals, listen to ethnic music as well as taste regional food and drinks. Her favorite spots while traveling are family houses and street markets.
What a lovely story. Although I’m terrified of crocodiles I would never want to see them harmed
Thank you for this informative article, I didn’t know about this issue. Let’s hope the area can deal with the problem in an eco-friendly way.
This was really interesting! I love hearing about countries’ origin stories, and this one is really cool.
Although having said that, it is really sad to hear that so many people lose their lives to crocodiles. Do you know if the croc population is still growing, or if it has plateaued now there are so many of them?
Had not heard of the crocodile issue, nor the significance behind it – but it’s so interesting to learn that the natives would rather deal with the overabundance of crocodiles for cultural reason. Very intriguing read.
So awful to live in constant fear of crocodile attacks, but I hear what you’re saying about the conflict with the cultural issue being that they’re sacred animals. It’s a hard position to be in.
I had no idea they had a crocodile issue. I would be so scared to go in the water to go fishing, but if that is the only way to get your food than I see why the risk is taken. Hopefully, this issue will get solved somehow…would hate to live in constant fear of crocodiles!
I haven’t seen a crocodile in real life yet but just watching on video makes me scared already. I have tasted crocodile meat though!
What an interesting story! We often forget how important even dangerous animals are to the eco—system and world we live in! You must have had an incredible experience here.
I never even heard of this country. It’s so amazing how many countries there are to experience on this earth. Adding this to my list but I’ll definitely remember your words about the crocodiles. It reminds me a little bit of the cows in India. The cows just wander around wherever they please throughout the whole country and no one bothers them because the cows are like a God to the Indian people. Very interesting read!
Thank you, I am glad you are curious to come and discover Timor by yourself
Wow such an interesting place this seems. I’m glad you didn’t encounter any crocodiles though. I hope this community gets some help to deal with the growing crocodile population.
It’s really necesary I hope that too
This is a lovely article about a place i did not know about before. I can see your passion for poetry and culture of the places you visit. Really appreciate that.
Thank you
I love this post because it’s facts vs. urban legends. LOVE that! I had never even heard of Timor Leste, but this post was captivating!
Thank you so much
Omg I didn’t know anything about this! So interesting and fascinating, and so dangerous at the same time. Thanks for sharing this
I have never heard about this story but this is very interesting. I’d loved to know the story and origin of other places but I hope they were able to resolve the issue about it.
Hopefully soon they will
Such an interesting story. I’m glad you didn’t encounter any crocodiles, if I saw one I think I’d freak out a little bit x
Of course, who would love to meet 6m long beast?
That was a curios read. NIce post 🙂
Thanks Nidhi!
Interesting information here on crocodiles. All new to me so glad I read this post.
Glad to hear that 😉
I admit I am probably a little freaked out about Crocodiles. So I’m not sure I could just visit because of my own irrational fear.
I was freaking out too, on every beach there is a risk to meet one monster
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I wasn’t aware of this one way or another, so this was a really fascinating read! Thanks so much!
Wow this is crazy interesting! Crocodiles are scary but it’s sad to see them harmed. I believe responsible travel is so very important to keep our world travel-able for years to come!
What an interesting story! I didn’t know much about the crocodiles of Timor Leste and this was very informative. Is the crocodile population still growing over there?
Its hard to say
I’ve never read about this issue before, it’s really interesting. I’m glad that responsible tourism is gaining traction and values of the local people are being respected. That said, I would be terrified if I saw a crocodile in person!